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It has to be said (since I had one previous run-in with the legal department of the LEGO company, but that's neither here nor there), that this page is in no way affiliated with the LEGO Company (Canada or otherwise) and is not endorsed by the aforementioned company.
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See Mark Riley's website on LEGO DCC here
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***May 23, 2004***
I made these 'DCC chips in a 2x8 brick' things, but couldn't decide what to do with them. So I put 'em in a locomotive!
Took the bottom plate off the train motor housing, separated the metal pickup rails from the 9v motor, and soldered a regular 9v LEGO wire to the motor.
Then put it back together. The metal pickup rails are still electrically connected to the top plate on the motor housing.
By doing this, the train motor can be used on a conventional layout by connecting the 9v wire to the electrical plate.
If you want to go DCC, take the motor wire and connect it to the motor output of the 2x8 DCC brick. Take another 9v LEGO wire an connect it from the top electrical plate on the motor housing to the input of the 2x8 DCC brick.
The upside is that the DCC chips in the 2x8 are less expensive than the 'N' scale chips I'm buying for use inside the actual motor housing.
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***June 2, 2003***
Mark Riley developed firmware for the RCX which makes the RCX into a DCC. See his page here. Let me tell you that this is great stuff!
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So we decide to test a reverse loop. Here's Calum testing the voltage on teh track.
An overhead shot of the quick layout thrown together to test reversing loops. |
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When I went home, I set up a double reverse loop to throw the DCC thru it's paces. I modified a length of track by isolating a section the length of the electric wheelsets on a LEGO train motor.
It was great watching the train go thru the loops. It's difficult to see, but the light on the little steam engine is on. As well, the little white tab on the track shows where the insulated section is |
| Added Digital Command to my LEGO train layout. Below are some pics showing modifications and steps to convert existing LEGO elements to DCC.
Usual disclaimer--I assume *no* responsibility for damage done to parts and to persons should anyone attempt what I've done here.
That said, you may contact me if you have any questions relating to DCC and converting your existing LEGO related pieces.
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Modifying the eletrical plate 101:
Get a small drill--twist by hand to remove plastic that's holding metal parts in plate.
Carefully pry metal parts away from plastic plate.
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Here's the separated pieces
Snip the metal parts to your needs |
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Here's the snipped metal parts.
Cut a pathway in the plastic 'tubes' for placement of the wires. |
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Here's all pieces.
Solder the wires to the metal pieces, making sure that the wires are connected in the middle of the metal parts. |
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Place the metal pieces back in the plastic plate and place the wires in the preiously cut pathways.
Prepare the bottom plate. You may have to cut the studs to allow for the solder and wires. |
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The finished job!
This idea was modified directly from someone elses idea that I saw on LUGNET. Unfortunately, I can't remember who that was, but thanks! |
Got an HO DCC chip and attached it to a 2x8 electric plate.
You can connect the "DCC Brick" at any point in the layout using regular track points connector. |
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The DCC brick has one variable speed motor output, and two light outputs.
It can be used for accessories anywhere on the layout. I'll try to come up with something nifty.
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Made a better brick to contain the DCC chip and wiring. Looks much better now. Just have to glue the thing together sometime |
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Made a DCC converted train motor with the ability to plug the DCC accessory brick into it. Now that I have the functionality, I just have to come up with what to build with it. |
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